We all enjoy the look and feel of lush, thick grass. But to achieve a perfect lawn it is important to understand the variables that contribute to the success, or failure of turf grass.

General Lawn Care: Grass grows best in a sunny location. Those thinning patches under the Maple tree are best treated with a yearly top-dressing of soil and grass seed. While all grasses prefer sun, seed mixes for shade are higher in various types of Fescue as it is somewhat more tolerant of shade. Summers in Niagara are typically hot and dry. For grass to survive this it needs healthy, deep roots. There are several methods to encourage this. In hard, compacted soils it is important to aerate the lawn in spring. This creates holes that allow water to get below the root zone. This encourages deeper root growth. A fall application of fertilizer higher in Phosphorous and Potash (the two last numbers on the bag of fertilizer) also encourages healthy roots. Perhaps the most important factor is the summer watering routine. It’s better to water less frequently but for longer than often and little. Frequent, shallow irrigation encourages shallow root growth and this makes the lawn weaker.

Weeds: When we speak of weeds there are two types that should concern the homeowner. Broadleaf weeds and weed grasses. Weeds can grow from seeds or emerge from bits of root left in the soil. Broadleaf weeds can be controlled with a selective herbicide such as 2-4-D available in Killex or weed and feed products.** When applied according to the directions these products will kill Dandelions, Chickweed, Creeping Charlie and many other types of lawn weeds without harming the grass. Weed grasses are another matter. Because these aregrasses, selective herbicides are not effective. (If they were, the turf grass would also be harmed.) Annual weed grasses like Crabgrass are controlled with a spring application of C-I-L Turfbuilder with Halts or corn gluten sold as Environmental Factors Turf Maize. These are pre-emergent controls that stop seeds from germinating. That means re-seeding of your lawn should not be done at the same time. Perennial weed grasses like Bentgrass and Quackgrass are more difficult to control. Patches are best removed after which you can re-seed or re-sod. Non-selective natural herbicides like Safer’s Topgun and Scotts Eco Sense will kill perennial weed grasses, but they also kill desirable grass. If these are used to control troublesome patches, be sure to avoid spray drift onto the lawn.

Grubs: There are many insects that can damage the lawn, but the one we hear most often is Grubs. Grubs are the larval stage of various types of beetles. They damage lawns by feeding on the roots. If grubs are present in large numbers they can consume the roots faster than the lawns ability to regenerate them. The first line of defense is to encourage healthy roots (see general Lawn Care). There are two types of control currently available to treat grubs. The first is the insecticide Carbaryl** which is sold under the trade name Grub Out. This is a chemical insecticide that kills the grubs it comes in contact with. A natural alternative is a product called Lawn Guardian or Grub Buster which contains beneficial Nematodes. These are non-toxic, natural organisms that seek out and kill infested grubs within 24 to 48 hours of infection. Nematodes are applied with a hose-end-sprayer. This is best done in the early morning or evening so the hot sun does not “cook” them. Once applied the nematodes will need to be watered in to carry them into he soil. It is important to maintain good soil moisture, since nematodes are most active in these conditions. ** These products will be banned under proposed municipal and provincial pesticide laws.